"SPRING CHORDS" Festival-Contest

Spring Chords Festival & Contest

NEW DATE: May 20, 2015 at 4:00 pm
Ivano Frankivsk, vul Depovs'ka, 97 
20.05.15 о 16,00год.,м.Івано-Франківськ,вул.Деповська,97

While in Ukraine in August 2014,  Maria Chulak, the chair of 'Rossa Karpat' (Cathpathian Mist), a community organization promoting folk art and craft in Prykarpattya invited me to help to promote this festival so there could be an international presence.

I agreed and here are all the details and application form in English and in Ukrainian. 

Maria Chulak, founder of "Роса Карпат" (Carpathian Mist),
and organizer of the the "Spring Chords", III Prykarpattian Festival-Contest

Next spring there will be a III Prykarpattian Festival-Contest of Designer Outfits with Folk Motifs --"SPRING CHORDS" in Ivano Frankivsk, Ukraine. You can see and read about the first and second festivals on the internet. I'm showing a few photos from the previous shows.

Dress sewn from a fabric with woven motifs.  II Spring Chords

Participation is FREE, however, the shipment of submission garments or travel are at your OWN expense. The application deadline is March 20, 2015.

The Third "SPRING CHORDS" (Весняні Акорди) Gala is scheduled for May 22, 2015. In the framework of the festival -contest there will be master classes, press-conferences about the festival results, formal finale, awards ceremony and a  gala concert.

This is a wonderful opportunity to participate in a festival designed to promote contemporary clothing inspired by traditional folk art motifs. While it's nice that that the producers are gearing this towards students and young professionals in Ukraine, I personally do not see what age has to do with it. It's the love of the folk arts, design and imagination that should be celebrated here.

The idea is to create contemporary fashion with motifs taken from folks arts and embroider, weave or embellish with beadwork (embroidery or beadwoven 'gerdan' accessory).

Outfits modelled at II Spring Chords Festival

There are many parcel and courier services to Ukraine. Shipping time needs to be built in so the submissions arrive in Ivano Frankivsk by May 10, 2015. No entries will be accepted without prior application.

A fashion show and gala will be held May 22nd at Hotel Nadia. There is a contest component to this with judging in four categories: One Garment; Costume; Collection; Accessories.

Collection presented at II Spring Chords Festival

I would like to see many entries from USA and Canada participating in the next Festival-Contest.

This is a very doable project! All it takes is to file an application by Mar 20th; send your outfit(s) to Maria Chulak by May 10th for fitting a model and prep for the show; plan a trip to Ukraine with a stop in Ivano Frankivsk for the Gala SPRING CHORDS Festival-Contest on May 22, 2015.

The personal trip would be an awesome for the Festival and your soul. Need any more excuses?

The benefits are numerous. If you participate, you become an "international" designer, creator and supporter of contemporary folk arts in Ukraine. If you have something suitable, I believe you can send a few outfits (don't forget the application form) to Ivano Frankivsk. There have been many great contemporary embroidery events recently in USA, i.e. at the Ukrainian National Museum. We have been doing this for a long time in North America.

'Sorochka' chemise at I Spring Chords Festival

Final walk of outfits and costumes at the II Spring Chords

HISTORY
The competition originated with the goal of developing and simultaneously supporting young talent, creativity and growth professional level of a fashion designer.  The festival enables an interregional exchange of artistic values, preserving of traditions and acquaints youth with Ukrainian folk culture. This form of artistic competition strengthens the love of folk arts and creativity, preserves spirituality, ethnic independence, and is a renewal of moral values.

The main goal of the festival-contest is to give students and young professionals opportunities to express their fantasy, demonstrate expertise and visualize garment styles based on folk traditions. “Spring Chords” helps applicants make the first steps in a professional career, enables the development of a nationally-focussed creative individual. 

Participation in the competition gives youth a chance to demonstrate their artistic potential to professional designers and is a natural starting point for further cooperation with well know fashion designers.

SPRING CHORDS Festival creates the conditions for creative collaboration between collectives and master craftsmen – representatives of the traditional national culture; enables the rebirth of national holiday rituals and customs, propagation of better spiritual  values of the Ukrainian people,  love of the native land; helps connect youth to Ukrainian folk art; encourages the preservation and support of the historic-cultural and natural riches of the Carpathian land. 

Participation in the  “Spring Chords” Festival-Contest is free.

Participant’s work and information about them will be included in the Festival catalog.

The creative work of the designers will be evaluated by a competent jury:  designer, art scholars, craftspeople, artists, expert-analysts.

    Categories:

One garment;

Costume;

Collection;

Accessories.

Entries should be created on the basis of folk traditions and be adorned  by  embroidery, weaving, bead embellishment.

Entries should demonstrate the designer is aware of the current fashion trends and direction.

Entries should be created using quality materials, in keeping with the technological requirements.

Entries should be oriented for the consumer.

EACH PARTICIPANT COVERS THEIR OWN SHIPPING and TRAVEL EXPENSES

All participants will receive certificates from the festival-contest “Spring Chords”; 

Contest winners (in each category) will be awarded with memorable souvenirs.

Information about “Spring Accords’ will be available through the internet; in the press, media, information services, other mass media with rights to feature the event. 

Here are all the details and application form in English and in Ukrainian. 

In the framework of the festival -contest there will be master classes, press-conferences about the festival results, formal finale, awards ceremony and a  gala concert.

ABC's of Creativity - V is Venetian

Just as I was about to write about Venetian beads from the historical point of view, Stefani Ogden of Bead Den at the TBS Bead Fair  gave me a quick lesson on contemporary Murano beads. 

Selection of Venetian beads at Bead Den at TBS Bead Fair, 2013
www.beadden.com 

Murano glass is known around the world for its beauty and clarity. Venetian bead making dates back to early 1300s when beads were produced by hand with the famous Moretti glass. These beads became known worldwide as Venetian Beads.  

(l). Blown Venetian beads; (r.) double blown beads.
www.beadden.com

Orchid glass pendant.
www.beadden.com

Several glassmaking techniques such as millefiori (thousand flowers), sommerso (submerged), filigrana (threads of different colours), frit (tiny pieces of crushed glass and aventurina (goldstone) have been developed over the centuries and the bead makers of today use the same techniques as were used in the 11th Century.  Genuine Venetian/Murano beads are made by hand using fine quality materials such as 24 carat gold, .925 sterling silver as well as Moretti glass.

Geometric Foil collection. 24K gold and .925 sterling silver is used in Murano beads
http://www.venetianbeads.com

Pendant with 24K foil and millefiori fish
http://www.venetianbeads.com

Twisted beads with 24K gold
www.beadden.com

Pendants with frit, 24K gold. Teardrop pendant.
www.beadden.com

Red Murano beads with 24K. Some gold is added to make the red colour.
www.beadden.com

(top) Heart pendants with millefiore; (lower) Frit aand fused pendants
www.beadden.com

Klimt-style Murano beads with 24K gold
www.beadden.com

  Sommerso floral garden beads
www.beadden.com

Murano beads with large holes for sliding over bracelets.
www.beadden.com

Mini Murano teardrop pendants
www.beadden.com

This Murano teardrop pendant with 24K was stamped MURANO
www.beadden.com 

The name MURANO is stamped into hot glass of larger, thicker pieces.
www.beadden.com

From the historic side, Chevron beads were created by the end of the 14th century. Venetian chevron beads are drawn beads, made from glass canes, which are shaped using specifically constructed star moulds. The first chevron beads consisted of 7 layers of alternating colours. They usually have 6 facets. By the beginning of the 20th century, 4 and 6-layer chevron beads appear on various sample cards. Read more about how the layers are created, colours and  how pattern is exposed. 

Early small Venetian chevrons, circa 16th century 

courtesy: http://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/blog_post/ShadowDogDesigns/7169/

(photo by Karun:  http://www.karuncollection.com/?p=1170)

Chevron beads can be composed of a varied number of consecutive layers of colored glasses. The initial core is formed from a molten ball of glass (called a "gather") that was melted in a furnace. If the glassworker is making beads, an air bubble is blown into the center of the gather via a blowpipe, thus creating an opening, the future bead's perforation. 

Chevron Venetian Six Layer Trade Beads Big Africna, late 1800's early 1900'x

http://www.africadirect.com/beads/venetian-over-500

When making solid multilayered cane intended to be used for decorating millefiori beads no air bubble is inserted. The gather (with the air bubble in its center) is plunged into a star-shaped mould, which can have anywhere between five and fifteen points. Several layers of glass can be applied, returning to the mould as desired, to create either a star-shaped or smooth effect for each layer. 

Most of the Venetian chevron beads made for export to West Africa and to the Americas have layers in red, blue, and white. A smaller number of chevron beads were produced with other colors such as green, black and yellow. Venetian chevron beads have been traded throughout the world, most heavily in West Africa. These beads are referred to as "trade" beads. While researching this topic, it's amazing how many Venetian chevron and millefiori are out there for sale through E-bay. Some asking prices seem amazing, but adds to the appreciation of how precious Venetian beads are.

Millefiori is an Italian word meaning " a thousand flowers".  Millefiori beads are also known as "mosiac" beads throughout the world.  The making of millefiori beads is a two step process.  First the murrine or cane is made and then these are applied to a molten wound glass core and made into beads. 

Illustration of steps for making Millefioeri beads
http://www.venetianbeads.com/Millefiori.htm

Millefiori pendants. (top) flat matter millefiori pendant. See Murano label below
www.beadden.com

Murano Label on back of flat millefiori pendant
www. beadden.com

Venetian bead were very highly prized world-wide. They made their way to Ukraine and were strung and finished off with a “chepraha”, a unique metal clasp. By our standards, it may seem oversize, but it was used exclusively with Venetian beads. Status was shown by how many strand and styles of beads were worn for holidays. The more strands of beads, “korail”, pearls, “zgardy”, metal crosses or coins, the higher the status of the girl. This was especially evident on bridal wear, the fanciest variation of the local folk costume with unique headdresses.

Hutsul bride wearing 5 strings of Venetian beads amongst a beadwoven 'sylianka' choker, 'zgardy' with coins', 'korali'  with metal beads, 2006
Nat. Museum of Hutsulshchyna and Pokuttya, Kolomyya, Ukraine

Venetian bead necklaces catalogued in the 3rd floor collection of the
Nat. Museum of Hutsulshchyna and Pokuttya, Kolomyya, Ukraine, 2006

Seed bead 'gerdan' and metal 'zgardy" necklace from Western Ukraine.
Two strings of Venetian beads; lower string are "wedding cake" beads.
On display at Museum of Decorative Folk Arts, Kyiv, Ukraine, 2013

Hutsul metal crosses strung between Venetian beads.
Since they are so prized, the beads are carefully placed in the design.
Kosiv Museum, Ukraine, 2011

Check out the incredible Venetian beads out there! Surf the net and be amazed by the variety of Trade and Millefiori beads from the past and marvel at the prices they're fetching.  

Better yet, pick up a contemporary Murano bead and create your masterpiece.

Photos of Bead Den's Murano Beads: Maria Rypan

Happy beading,

Maria

ABC's of Creativity - T is Texture

Colourful chicklets are stitched onto a zigzagging netted base.
By Sofiya Fedyna and Tetiana Chyhovetz, Lviv, 2008

Texture has many definitions, but the sum of pulling together of different elements creates an interesting look, a dynamic art piece and adornment.

Here are a few defiinitions http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/texture

Texture is a :  something composed of closely interwoven elements;specifically :  a woven cloth

textile texture - patched linen

Since interwoven elements are mentioned, beadweaving and loom weaving qualify for my presentation about texture in the bead world.

Elastic bracelet with three sections of fine seed bead mosaic (Peyote)  and strung pony beads between. 

Loomwoven 'gerdan' uses two different sizes  of seed beads. Fine seed are the connectors between loomwoven design and back strap. A combination of pony and fine seed bead form a swag front.

Contemporary Hutsul region 'gerdan' purchased in Ivano Frankivsk, Ukraine, 2008

A combination of pony and fine seed beads form a swag front.
Contemporary Hutsul region 'gerdan' purchased in Ivano Frankivsk, Ukraine, 2008

Texture is b :  the structure formed by the threads of a fabric

fragment of tapestry http://www.texturepalace.com

Netting and other stitches are created by beadweaving threads strung with beads into a netted fabric.You start with nothing and create a net one row at a time by passing through mesh points.

Texture Net with Saucers or Lanterns. The colour and size of bead create the pattern.
from Maria's narrated Netting Primer by CraftArtEdu.com

 Instead of using colour placement to create a pattern, use different sizes of beads to create the pattern. This works well in the understated monochromatic look which goes with today's fashion. 

Textured Net in an subtle analogous palette. Beadweaving is best done in hand for good tension and to make all the different sized beads mesh together .
from Maria's narrated Netting Primer by CraftArtEdu.com

Textured Saucer Net sampler
from Maria's narrated Netting Primer by CraftArtEdu.com

Netted Chic Chevrons with mini rondelles inside silver zigzag.
NZ25 -Chic Chevron Collar kit, 2013
"Chic Chevron Collar", BEADWORK, Aug/Sep 2013, pgs. 66-68

Original extra wide netted collar with 2-cut green iris beads between metallic gold
Roey's Zigzag Gold by M. Rypan, 1994

Novel cubes and beads create picots as you vertically beadweave the netted base.
Note how flat the base is because it's all in one size seed bead.
 Triple 'V' Jewel kit, 2008
"Gerdany: Triple 'V' Jewel", ANPT, Festive 2008, pgs. 70-77

4mm jewel-tone facetted cubes are stitched on top of net.
 Triple 'V' Jewel kit, 2008
"Gerdany: Triple 'V' Jewel", ANPT, Festive,2008, pgs. 70-77

Same gold-tone cubes and crystals on two different netted bases.
Scythian Gold 'V' kit, 2009
"Scythian Gold", BEADWORK, Oct/Nov 2009. pgs 63-65 

"Kalyna" bead clusters on netted 'V'
by Nadia Kuzmych Emenalyova, Lviv, 2011

Berry cluster has mosaic-stitched (Peyote) leaves. Berried are opaque with a few transparent ones.

"Kalyna 'V" by Nadia Kuzmych Emenalyova, Lviv, 2011

 Texture is the visual or tactile surface characteristics and appearance of something. Bead Embroidery qualifies here since bead are stitched onto a fabric.

Beaded icon with a netted halo. Faces and hands are painted.
"Madonna & Child" by Oksana Ivanochko, Lviv 2010 

Unusual shapes and objects are embroidered with bead  into this new series.
"Beaded Body Adornment" by Sherry Serafini, 2012

Texture is a:  essential part :  substance

b :  identifying quality :  character

texture  - broken dry soil www.123rt.com

Texture also means a: basic scheme or structure
  

b :  overall structure

By combining different sizes of seed bead sizes and other types of beads in the same project, you create more interesting, dimensional objects of beauty.
By using different shapes and sizes of beads in place of contrasting and accent beads of the same size, you can created interesting monochromatic palettes.

Fringes of random color and size come down from a randomly woven Diagonal Weave band.
By Sofiya Fedyna and Tetiana Chyhovetz, Lviv, 2008

Strings of random color and size beads are suspended from Diagonal Weave bands.
"Trypilian Pottery" by Sofiya Fedyna and Tetiana Chyhovetz, Lviv, 2008

Detail of two variation of Diagonal Weaves. One with strings of bead. Other trimmed with random fringes .
By Sofiya Fedyna and Tetiana Chyhovetz, Lviv, 2008

Diagoanl Weaves with contrast pony bead edges. Since there are two different sizes, working in hand is essential to lock the beads into place and let the band take shape.
Diagonal weave kits, 2009

The Bag of Beads Challenge included all sort of pressed glass shapes, bugles, sequins and buttons.
These make a very fun fringe to my netted kilim medallion.
"Sedona Kilim" TBS Challenge, 2000, by Maria Rypan

This brooch started with gluing down the bigger stones. Beads were then wrapped and stitched.
"Sea Breeze" Brooch by Maria Rypan 
created in a workshop with  Marla Gassner's, AZ, 2004

Hope you're inspired to try and add a few larger or unique beads or gemstones into your next beadwork. Would love to hear back with photos of you newest textured beadwork.

Happy beading! 

Maria