ABCs of Creativity - S is Seed Beads

There are two type of seed beads, the natural ones and glass drawn ones. Seed beads are small uniformly shaped beads that come in an enormous range of shapes, sizes, colours and finishes.

Czech seed beads with iris, silver-lined, matte painted stripe and opaque finishes.
From "Beader's Paint Box", 2013 seminar

I'm concentrating on the plethora of round seed beads made of drawn glass though there are many other styles, i.e. bugles, created by the described process. In the 15th century on the island of Murano near Venice, a hollow mass of glass was literally drawn or pulled into a long tube like taffy. This glass cane tube was then cut into small pieces to produce seed beads which were then tumbled to soften the edges and graded. The secret made its way out of Murano and a glass industry developed in the Bohemian forest and mountains of todays's Czech Republic.

A section from an engraving showing glass being drawn.
The plate is from Grands Hommes and Grands Faites de L'industrie, 1880.
courtesy of www.bigbeadlittlebead.com

New processes and machines were invented in the 1860s and bead makers were able to achieve uniformity of colors and size in beads. Since the end of the 17th century, Czech beads became a major production item. Bead became more accessible to the people in Europe and beadweaving and bead embroidery exploded. They also became a trade item to Africa and the Americas.

Chieftan's headdress with seed bead birds on beaded base. Yoruba, Africa
Seen at African Village Show in Tuscon, 2013 

Beadwork on souvenir items by Iroquois, Mohawks, Tuscarora. Note seed bead card.
Naomi Smith Collection, ON, 2005

"Gerdany" reproductions and original designs for sale at a Festival in Ukraine, 2013
 Netting and loomworked bracelets, chokers and a stylish "V'
courtesy of  Irena Halaschak on FB

In the early 20th century a machine was invented which automatically drew glass tubes. The Japanese seed beads industry developed in the mid 20th century and boasts a great variety of high quality seed bead styles and finishes. They created a cylindrical bead, i.e. Delica®, which has oversized holes for thread. These work well in mosaic-like (Peyote) stitching and generally are not interchangeable with round seed beads within the same piece. 

Round and cylindrical beads are sized by aughts, a number based on how many beads fit within a given measurement. The aught numbering system ranges from a larger 1/ to a very fine grain of sand 24/. 

Aught # on left. Note how many beads fit in a centimeter.
courtesy of Lisa on FB

Here is my Aught Bead Guide with historical names and modern uses:

1/ or 2/ = crow bead

3/ or 4/ = trade bead

5/ or 6/ = pony bead

6/ is a larger bead used for modern beadweaving and knitting

8/ = called “medium” bead in Rypan tutorials

8/ is a midway between the 6/ and 10/ or 11/ and used for modern  

             beadweaving and knitting

10/ or 11/ = fine beads used for beadweaving, knitting and embroidery

10/ seed is commonly used in First Nations beadwork and 'gerdany'-making
            10/ Czech is interchangeable with 11/ Japanese in Rypan patterns

11/ Japanese is a very common fine seed bead

11/ Czech seed bead is smaller than 10/

13/ = Charlotte bead has an additional facet to reflect light

15/ = very fine bead 

15/ is the smallest bead in modern production

18/, 20/, 22/ = very tiny beads which are no longer in production.

The higher the aught #, the tinier the bead. 

              These tiny seed beads are only in old beadwork in museums and collections worldwide

Czech 8/ medium sized; 6/ purple-lined pony; 2/ purple-lined crow;
Japanese 11/ silver-lined fine seed bead
 Wisteria Textured Net for narrated Netting Primer 

Rocailles are round seed beads with a lining inside the bead creating in Venice. These used to have a silver lining (s/l), but today refer to any type of color or metallic lining. Preciosa®, the largest Czech manufacturer still refers to the round seed beads as rocailles and divides them in uncoated and coated categories. Many undergo further finishes.

10/ s/l gold and brown rocailles with a touch of s/l blue on navy iris were used in M Rypan's netted kllim
This kilim was my first article,"Ukrainian Netting'', Bead and Button, Jun 2003
 Indigo Kilim kit or pattern, 2004

The round seed bead has two distinctly different shapes depending on manufacturer. The Czech seed beads are more donut-shaped and tend to stretch out a charted design within certain techniques, i.e. loomwork and pictorial mosaic. They are sold loose or strung in hanks. The Japanese beads are more square-ish with rounded corners. Never mix the two seed bead types within a beadwoven or loomwoven pattern because the shapes are distinctly different. Mixing different shapes and sizes is fine in stringing, some netting and herringbone styles.

Cylindrical beads are flat and fit nicely together in pictorial type of stitching, i.e. mosaic or loomwork. Because of their shape, they then to flatten out a charted pattern so you need to make many more repeats to reach your desired length.

Iva's Daisies  using Delica cylinder beads by M Rypan, 2003

Mosaic Daisies using 8/ seed beads by M Rypan
Mosaic Daisies kit, 2004

Innovations never cease. Now we have hybrid beads which where some Japanese beads are sent to the Czech Republic for their traditional finishes. This collaboration yields unique brilliant beads.Today’s description are lengthy because they makers are constantly experimenting with new finishes. Even transparent beads have AB coatings.

Start of a textured Herringbone with hybrid Picassa olive (Sour Apple) 6/,
#2 s/l amethyst, rainbow rosaline/op. purple-lined 11/, deep magenta-lined AB hex beads

The Sour Apple 6/ hybrid beads really give this herringbone zing
Beaded Soutache Herringbone kit, 2012

Finishes affect the perception of the bead especially when they are placed amongst other beads or backgrounds. Matte beads recede. The opaque color seem to come forward. Silver-lined beads reflect light. Transparent beads look great in windows with light behind them, but change drastically when against skin color or used in small doses within a beadwoven pattern.

Iris beads have and Aurora Borealis finish and no longer are limited to a few classic metallic finishes. 

Color placement of seed beads can totally alter the look and mood of a piece.

Netting with silver-lined red on green iris background by M Rypan
 Red Green Kilim kit, 2004

Same netting pattern with metallic gold on green iris. Note s/l red beads
Mediterranean Kilim kit, 2004

Making samplers to test best effect for Netted X's and O's using French 8/ seed beads
for Millefiori Netting X's and O's in ANPT, Summer 2012
Blue Chevron X's and O's kit, 2013

Lustered finishes reflect light. Ceylon pearls are more transparent and are affected by what’s around them. Op. white pearl is a brighter amongst other bead types.

Pearl-tipped Twig Cascade commissioned for Katrusia's wedding, 2012
Twig Chip Cascade Netting Pattern - downloadable 

Seed beads are brought to life by various techniques:

Bead embroidery on a sheep skin 'kyptar' vest from Bukovyna, Ukraine, 1950's
 Maria Rypan Collection, 2008

Bead embroider and 'tsyrka' whitework trim on 'sorochka' chemise
from Kitsman, Bukovyna region, 1950s
Nastasiya Marusyk Collection, IL 2007

Bead embroideed 'sorochka' using cut and round seed beads
from Kitsman, Bikovyna region, 1950's
Nastasiya Marusyk Collection, IL, 2007

Loomwork using colors of seed beads to recreate traditional embroidery pattern on left.
Stylized interpretations for contemporary medallion styles and swag finished 'gerdany'
Master Craftartist Maria Chulak, Pyadyky, Kolomyya region, Ukraine, 2006

Vanessa reinterprets the rose in the Diagonal weave, Bead Fx April 13
Top: 3-color Rhombic Medallion Pattern
Mid: Diagonal Rose Medallion Pattern

Color placement of the seed beads create a dynamic pattern
beaded by Barbara Glennon, NJ, 2011
based on M Rypan pattern in Netted Mesh Collars: Lessons #1

Original Zigzag netted collar with a three step increase with design created bicolour placement seed beads
Created for workshop at ROM in conduction with "Legacy of Scythian Gold" exhibit
Netted Zigzags downloadable pattern 

Netted Triple V's with silver-lined accent and contrast beads creating the design
 done in a vintage black iris bead by M Rypan
Triple V kit, 2000
Triple V pattern included in Jagged Mesh Net: Lessons #2 book

Beaded pysanky beadwoven with a variety of techniques. Several start off with netting. Some are squarestitched and tapered on ends with mosaic (Peyote)stitches
by Luba Frankevych, at Vernissage, Lviv, 2013

Color and beadweaving technique creates this style.
Start beading in the center. Add swags last.
 Deep V Cascade kit or pattern, 2001

Seed beads are donut-shaped and fall with the hole up making it easy to peck them and slide up onto needle when using a Chinet® paper plate surface. These plates enable beading to be a very portable activity when tucked into a ziplock bag along with a mini kit of beads, clippers, needle and thread.

Picking up bead tips in "Beadweaving Basics"on Maria's narrated Netting Primer 

Great guides for all types of beading: BigBeadLittleBead Find out how many beads you get per hank or gram.. What type of thread to use with different bead sizes.

It all starts with two or three different beads colours, a little beadweaving or embroidery and a touch of creativity... 

Happy beading!
Maria

"Embellishing Your World" show

Maria and Naomi Smith with a printout of the opening slide

It was great sharing my "Embellishing Your World: Beading & Surface Designs" with fellow beadmates on Nov 10th at the Toronto Bead Society. This was an inspirational seminar with beadwork examples and stories from around the world.

What was special that evening was that Naomi, a fellow TBS member, brought her collection of First Nations Beadwork. I featured photographs of her collection in the first five slides of my PowerPoint. We combined the best of two worlds for the benefit of our members. I projected images and pointed out interesting details about the unique artifacts of the Mohawk and Tuscarora Nations. Naomi brought the genuine articles so people could then see them up close. This was a once in a lifetime opportunity for TBS members.

For my half of the display, I brought my collection of beaded "Pysanky" eggs. Several were beaded by Vira Pavlova Witkovska plus other bead artists from Ukraine. The beaded "Lilacs" were made by Oksana, a young student of an after-school Craft Program in Kolomyya. They're so life-like it's hard to believe they're just beads on twisted wires! Amazing... Love it!

Maria's collection of beaded 'pysanky' eggs, ornaments and bead wire "Lilacs"

I'll be presenting "Embellishing Your World..." to the new West Toronto Beading Guild on Mar 8, 2011 at their regular monthy meeting. We're going to combine it with a hands-on beading workshop on learning how to do the versatile Diagonal Weave. I'm looking forward to inspiring the new beaders!

If you'd like an inspirational program by a passionate speaker, just let me know.... I'll be happy to share this and other beadwork presentations.

Scalloped Hearts

HRT1 - Scalloped Hearts in Dark Montana & Navy Iris bugles

New color combo... Another road trip project... This was done while returning from a wonderful wedding in Buffalo, NY this past weekend.

I needed to make a new sample, as well as do a test run on my Scalloped Hearts instructions for an upcoming workshop at the Creativ Festival next week. It was quite easy. Was it experience?? Was it the detailed illustrations with the thread paths clearly drawn? It was definitely the latter.

This is a unique beadweaving technique found in contemporary gerdany from Ukraine. There are a lot of twists and turns for each heart. The most important rule is to follow each step exactly as drawn. Once you've made one, the rest are easy because they repeat. It's easy to get carried away with all hearts all around the necklace. It could be a choker too, or a bracelet. Getting more ideas just sounding out as I write the blog. Scalloped Hearts kits are also available in amethyst, pearl gold, padparadscha to name a few. Patterns give the ultimate in creative license.

Twig Willow Twist

TW-WL-TM -Twig Willow Twist in copper

Metallics continue to dominate the accessory scene. Copper leads the way with brass moving up in popularity. The TWIG WILLOW TWIST takes all the newest in glass beads and combines it into a stunning piece. Have you ever seen twisted bugles edged with copper or brass? How about glass triangles with a metallic core? They’re sandwiched in between metallic seed beads for maximum impact. It’s all about texture, shape and silhouette.

Beadweaving gives you the ability to manipulate stunning beads into a glamorous piece with just a needle and thread. Learn from the master, Maria (that's me), who's got her finger on the pulse for what's unique in neckpieces and bracelets.

There's still space available in the 3 hour Twig Willow Twist workshop at the Creativ Festival in Toronto on Fri at 1 pm. Or catch Maria and her beadwork kits, patterns and books in booth #717.

Miss December - 3-D Snowflakes

TBS Calendar, December 2011 - Snowflakes by Maria Rypan

The new 2011 Toronto Bead Society Calendar is out and I'm Miss December! Really, my 3-D Snowflakes grace that month's spread.

There are many ways you can make your very own snowflakes like those pictured. You could take a workshop Fri, Oct 22nd at the Creativ Festival in Toronto and get tips and tricks from the master, that's me.

You could get a Rypan Designs kit and choose your favorite from a multitude of bugle sizes and two Swarovski crystal finishes. If you have a bead stash, just get the pattern. The insert clearly illustrates how to space out shorter v.s. longer bugles. Check the Student's Gallery to be inspired by my samplemaker Jo-Ann's multi-colored snowflakes. Each one is different to match her colleagues personalities. They make great gifts!

You could also find the instructions in Beaded Ornaments for the Holidays and Beyond from Bead & Button and BeadStyle Magazines. Waukesha: Kalmbach Publishing, 2009: 90-91.

The proceeds from the sales of this calendar are going to The Native Women's Resource Centre to support youth programs and craft classes for women of all ages. Would you like a calendar full of eye candy and inspiration for 2011?

Contemporary Beadwork in Ukraine at UMA, OH

On the way to Philadelphia for Bead Fest, we'll be stopping at the Ukrainian Museum-Archives in Ohio on Aug 13th and 14th. I'll be presenting my Contemporary Beadwork in Ukraine and a Trunk Show Friday evening.

I've pulled the best photos of the most fascinating beadwork seen in my many recent trips to Ukraine. You'll see several bead artists/vendors at the Vernisage, a piazza full of folk art next to the Lviv Opera. Visit master craftspeople’s homes. See how the rich legacy of beadwork evolved into contemporary colored accessories. You’ll be amazed at the variety of beadwork styles, bead embroidery, wire bead flowers, beaded eggs... and more.

My RYPAN DESIGNS Trunk Show will feature books, beadwork kits and patterns related to Ukrainian-inspired themes and more. Refreshments will be served.

There will be two Gerdany Beadwork Workshops on Saturday for an excellent hands-on intro to the world of beadwork. Be sure to sign up for classes. This could be your new hobby! Advance registration required for workshops. Space is limited. See www.umacleveland.org Contact: (216) 781-4329 or email staff@umacleveland.org Ukrainian Museum-Archives Inc., 1202 Kenilworth Avenue, Cleveland OH 44113-4417

Wintery visit to the museum in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland

Ivan Franko statue by Alexander Archipenko (1887-1964)

Bead Oasis first time in Halifax, NS

Textured Net class photo by CTV reporter

Day I: These ladies definitely enjoyed my Netting Intro class at the Canadian Bead Oasis Show. They got to choose their style from an assortment of beadwork kits so we could get right to learning about beadweaving and the technique. We were thrilled to be filmed while beading during class and then again at the end when one student gave feedback about the workshop. CTV ran this with their feature about the first bead show ever coming to Halifax on "Live at Five".

Jean and Maria showing off their 'V's

Day 3: Jean wears her Scythian Gold V necklace which she started in a 3-hour Friday afternoon class. On Saturday she brought in the embellished mirror image of what she began the day before to my Cascading Twig Chip class. Since the bulk was done, I joked about completing the whole thing for the end of the show. That evening Jean managed to finish the netted bands and make a beaded ball clasp for her necklace. Here she is wearing the finished piece on Sunday. That's determination... inspiration...

Lighthouse at Peggy's Cove, NS

It wasn't all hard work in the Maritimes.... I went on the Harbour Hopper Tour on Saturday evening. We got a chance to see Peggy's Cove before and after the show. There were rocks to climb, quaint coves and a tidal bore to see. Now there's a ton of photos to sort through but excellent memories of the spectacular scenery.

Rypan Designs in Dutch newspaper

What a thrill it was to hear back from Sandra once she returned home to Holland! In her quest to learn everything she possibly could about beadwork, Sandra found the Oasis Bead Show on the internet. She came to Toronto specifically for the show and managed to cram in seven workshops in the space of three days. As her first "teacher", I was proud of her accomplishments in my "Suspended Swags" beadweaving class and gave her a copy of my BEADWORK Oct/Nov 2009 as a souvenir.

After a brief visit to New York City with bags full of tools and beads, Sandra delivered on her promise of getting her story about her beadwork odyssey published in a Dutch newspaper. Here's the intro in translation:

"Sandra's Atelier/Sieradenparadijs has already got a good name on beautifull and her exclusive jewelry, but Sandra is always looking for new posibilities to make the new trends and techniques fit in collection......"

Visit Sieraden Paradijs. Engage the translator. Better still, the eye candy needs no translation.